thousands, like thousands are the nuances that forever bind me to surf. memories to projects that will push to make that can be realized.
respect anyone who can recognize something in the surf beyond the mere mechanics, Obsessive practice.
… the monumental courage to pat curren to the magical touch punk of Miki Dora, by the inspiration of innarivabile Bob Simmons, at the inward battle of Michel Peterson.
Passing through messengers of breath which in it is hides, Cheyne Horan, Lopez, Skip Frye, and also Leroy ‘masochist’ Smith (why not?)
All surfers filled with its own unique and unmatched style, heady and contagious.